Dogs Hate This Time of Year (Preserved Lemons, North African Cous Cous)

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It really is too hot to cook in Pennsylvania at this time of the year.  I know this because Rufus, our handsome, brilliant Golden Retriever, spends the day crashed out in the mud room.  Normally, any talk of a walk elicits barking, jumping and dog spins.   

This time of year, Rufus gives me that, “You kidding me, right?” look so familiar to parents of teenagers. 

But we still have to eat, and we should eat well this time of year.  Even the supermarkets have what they bill as LOCAL produce.  Really, just inside the door, the Giant has a faux market cart filled with zucchini and other stuff that they have marked with the farm where it was grown.  Some of it might be Astroturf local.  That they should be doing this all year is another discussion. 

You ought to be buying up everything at farm markets and roadside stands now.  I’m doing that and, with lust in my heart, awaiting the first local cantaloupe.  Not the refrigerated ones that come in from the Carolinas, the real melons with deep longitudinal ridges and a sweet perfume, because they were gathered in when ripe, rather than when the semi pulled up to take skids of produce to market.  Cathy insists that I have a weird, unnatural relationship with late summer melons and, as always, she is correct.

This time of year, cooking times should be shorter and we need to avoid turning on the oven.  That means that grilling is the way to go, sautéing is the preferred method for vegetables and that a starch like cous cous is a natural, because quickly boiling up a pot of water will not heat up your kitchen.  Tonight’s dinner should take less than 30 minutes to make.  Try preparing this menu of mint grilled turkey legs, string beans with balsamic vinegar and garlic and North African cous cous. 

Begin by marinating butterflied turkey legs (1 per person) in 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the juice of 1/2 of a lemon, some chopped fresh mint and a little salt and pepper.  If you are not good with a knife, ask your butcher to butterfly the turkey.  Let the legs marinate for 2 hours, then grill.  As the turkey is grilling, blanch then sauté some fresh green beans in olive oil.  Glaze them with balsamic vinegar and season with salt pepper and a little chopped garlic.  Set them aside to serve at room temperature.  I prefer the beans from Cathy Farrell Farms, a local organic place where the owner always treats me well.  Now, you can get to work on a deceptively complex, North African style, cous cous that is easy to make and sure to impress your friends.  The recipe follows.

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 Preserved Lemons

3 large firm lemons

2 tbs. kosher salt

4 tbs. olive oil

1 large bay leaf

Slice the lemons into thin rounds.  Lay them on a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt to pull out water and concentrate their flavor. 

After 1 hour, dab the lemon rounds with a paper towel to remove the water that has been drawn out.  Pack the lemons in a small glass jar, alternating layers of lemon and olive oil, until the jar is filled.  Lay a bay leaf on top of the preserved lemons in the oil.

Preserved lemons do not have to be refrigerated.  Store them in a cool, dark place.  They will keep almost indefinitely, but are better if used within 6 months.

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North African Cous Cous (serves 4)

1 1/3 cups uncooked cous cous*

1 tbs. olive oil

2 cups water, boiling

3 tsp. sliced almonds

3 tsp. raisins

2 tsp. preserved lemons, chopped

2 tbs. parsley, chopped

salt and fresh black pepper

Heat the olive oil on high in a large pot with a tight fitting lid.  Sauté the almonds, raisins, preserved lemons and parsley for just a minute, stirring constantly.  Add the cous cous, lower the heat to medium and toast the cous cous until it begins to pick up a light brown color.  Season with salt and fresh black pepper. 

Add the boiling water, stir once so that nothing has is sticking to the bottom of the pot, cover it tightly.  Allow the cous cous to rest for 5 to 7 minutes, according to the package directions.  When the cous cous has soaked all the water and has absorbed all the aromatics from the almonds, raisins and preserved lemons, fluff it with a fork and serve.

*Read the package directions before preparing the cous cous.  The brand you are using may have slightly different  proportions of water and cous cous.