Monday, November 4, 2013

Applesauce and the Wonder That is a Parsnip (Applesauce, Roasted Parsnips)



We cooked lunch for our church yesterday.  You can’t go wrong with salad, ham, applesauce and especially a cheesy, cream-soaked potato gratin.  The members at St. John’s can eat!  Interestingly, the big hit was Cathy’s applesauce.  She has been making it for years, but this time we got me advice from Gary at Ray’s Greenhouse in Telford, PA and adjusted the cooking technique a bit.  It made all the difference.

Buy food from Ray’s!  Here’s the contact info.  http://www.yelp.com/biz/rays-greenhouse-telford  They don’t seem to have a website.  No big surprise there, plus don’t we want them with their hands in the dirt, not head down on a keyboard?  I can’t say enough good about these folks.  I stop there all year to buy what is seasonal.  The fall is when they really shine.  I get about 60 gallons of cider from them every year, local apples, pressed in Zieglersville with no added preservatives.  They have a big selection on pumpkins and odd looking, tasty squash.  Broccoli, cabbage, potatoes and the most beautiful, ivory colored cauliflower, along with the newer alien green cauliflower, were available the last time I was in.  There are often four or more types of sweet potatoes and yams, all grown in their fields around Earlington.  Ask Gary for the tutorial if you can spare a bunch of time.  I particularly like the Beauregard, small, red, twisted little things with incredibly sweet flesh.  They now have hydroponic lettuce all year.  

This is also your apple hookup.  Unlike many other shops, the people at Ray’s know what they are selling and can help you pick out the right apple for your use.  For example, Winesap is the best eating apple, along with Jonathon and some of the golds.  Empire is for pies.  Gary told me that I should go with Cortland if we are making applesauce, because it comes out a striking pink color.  He was right.  Always trust your local farmer.  Here’s what we did, followed by a simple recipe for roasted parsnips, an often neglected root vegetable.
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It confused me when a number of people at church told me that they had never made their own applesauce and thought that it would be difficult to make.  This recipe and the next exemplify the kind of things that I want everyone to try, easy, packed with flavor and sure to delight the people around you.  The keys are that you must use top quality ingredients and understand the cooking techniques that work best for that particular food.

To make great applesauce, you don’t have to knock yourself out peeling and coring dozens of apples.  Additionally, this is something best made in bulk.  Apples are inexpensive and this stuff gets eaten up quickly.  The thing that is important about this recipe is that you will let the cooked apples sit on their skins for 30 minutes, letting the skin contribute a nice pink color and some tannin to the finished product, creating a more complex set of flavors than if you had simply milled the apples when they had finished cooking.  You may need some sugar to balance the acidity.  Use a light hand and your best judgment.

Applesauce

24 Cortland apples
½ cup sugar (if you think the finished product is too tart)

Quarter the apples and put them in a large, heavy-bottomed stock pot with a tight-fitting lid.  Turn the stove on high until the water begins cooking out of the apples and you hear boiling in the pot.  Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, as the apples cook and turn to mush.  When all the apples are cooked, cover the pot, turn off the heat and let it sit for 30 minutes. 

After the resting period, pass the apples through a food mill, removing the stems, cores and peels.  Refrigerate overnight and add any sugar before serving.
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I am on a righteous mission to popularize parsnips.  You’ve seen them in markets and on farm stands, but passed up on them, probably because you didn’t know what to do with parsnips.  Try this recipe.  You will be converted and will become a fanatical member of my cult.  We try to serve parsnips at all our dinner parties and have successfully converted a number of heathens who had spent their lives wandering the wilderness of Giant’s produce section. 

Roasted Parsnips

4 parsnips
1 tbs. unsalted butter, softened (or substitute peanut oil)
salt and pepper

Preheat your oven to 375°. 

Slice the parsnips into sticks about 1/3 of an inch square and 5 inches long.  The length does not matter as much as the thickness, since you want them to roast evenly.  Put the parsnips in a mixing bowl.  Coat them with the butter and season lightly with salt and pepper.

Spread the buttered parsnips on a baking sheet.  Be sure that they are in one layer, not touching, since that will prevent them from browning evenly. 

Put the baking sheet in the oven.  After 15 minutes, using tongs or a spatula, turn the parsnips.  In another 15 minutes the parsnips should be evenly browned, buttery and caramelized.  Remove from the pan and serve hot.       

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