I’m told
that I can be cranky. I’m doing my best
to moderate that, anger isn’t my “go to” anymore. Seriously, in the past, I was one of those
chefs that threw things, rolls, pots, sauté pans, rolls, even knives. The little paring knives get the point across
to the waiters, because with a little practice, you can stick them in the wall,
right beside their head as they are gabbing instead of running “this %#@&
venison to table eight!” I will admit to have been less than pleasant at times.
But that’s
all in the past. I’m cuddly now. I like kittens and flowers and puffy
clouds. I decorate with posters of
puppies. Yeah, my heart rate is no
longer like that of a hummingbird and my gastric juices are not swirling like
Hell Gate. Life is good, really good, at
least until I start looking at recipe web sites. It’s good to keep up with the
competition. I like to see what the
other folks are doing. It also sets me
on edge.
As a
professional chef, I read cookbooks like literature. Honestly, as I page through a cookbook, I
know what the food is going to taste like.
Think that’s odd, well I know a bunch of musicians and they can look
over sheet music and hear the whole thing, preformed, complete down to every
nuance. My recipe channeling is the same
thing. It is also a curse because, as I
read I have the acrid taste of scorched onions or the combination of kiwi and
shrimp in my mouth. I know that the
author never made the dish and that the result of following their advice will
be horrid. Some posters just don’t know
what they are doing. That’s OK, they’re
not pros, but they are published authors so they should at least test out what
they recommend.
One sin that has become so common is the reposting of someone else’s work. This bugs me. I’m asking for a little honesty here. If you wrote the recipe, take credit for
it. Brag! You have done something
spectacular. If not, tagging something
like “Recipe adapted from Simply
Recipes” on the bottom of the page doesn’t cover it. (”adapted” means that they changed the font) Even the most distracted middle school
teacher would bust you for plagiarism if you tried that in the real world, so
why is it cool online?
The other
thing that works me up is that everyone uses chicken stock in every recipe they
can, without thinking about what the final flavor is going to be. Wouldn’t it be better to make broccoli soup
with vegetable stock or water and let the green stuff shine. Why mask those good ingredients with a
reduced stock. The reason may be the
fault of poorly trained commercial chefs who feel that soup base or bullion, that salty, fatty
evil substance that substitutes for stock, is included in most commercial
recipes, from soup to Waldorf Salad (really, I’ve seen it). Some chefs see it as a given, necessary to boost the “flavor profile.”
I want to
encourage you to think at the stove.
That’s why today’s recipe is, like the previous recipe for creamy
salad dressing, is a chart. You’ll
get a basic recipe for broccoli soup and then a bunch of ways to vary it. This way, you will have the technique under
your belt and won’t freak out if there is no broccoli in the market that day,
you’ll just hum along the aisles and grab up something to replace what you
originally came for. You’ll be able to
make parsnip soup in the winter and tomato soup when it’s hot out. While the ingredients may change, the
technique will always be there in your back pocket.
_____
Puree of
Broccoli Soup to serve six
1 bunch
broccoli, about 3 cups chopped
1 ½ cups white
potato, peeled and diced
1 cup onion,
diced
2 tsp.
butter
6 cups water
or vegetable
stock
salt and
pepper
Roughly chop
the tops of the broccoli. Deeply peel
away the tough outer skin of the broccoli stems. Chop the peeled stems into ½ inch pieces.
In a heavy
bottomed stockpot, over a low heat, melt the butter then sauté the onions until
transparent, about 5 minutes. Season
with salt and pepper. Add the broccoli and potatoes,
continue to sauté the onions, potatoes and broccoli until the broccoli has wilted.
Pour in the
water or vegetable
stock, increase the heat and bring the soup to a boil. Lower the heat, simmer for one hour, skimming
occasionally to remove any proteins that rise to the top.
Puree the
soup with a minipimer or pass it through a food mill. Bring the soup back to a serving temperature,
adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and add an enrichment or serve as is.
_____
Use the
following chart to make a soup of your own.
The process is easy. Use the
Broccoli Soup recipe above as your guide, then choose an ingredient from the
chart below to vary the master recipe.
For example, you can make a great soup by substituting 3 cups of chopped
spinach for the broccoli. Additionally,
you could make a butternut squash soup with rice as a starch to thicken
it. If you would add ½ cup of heavy
cream to your squash soup, that would be a special thing. If you want to get a little crazy, use 2
vegetables, say 1 ½ cup tomatoes and 1 ½ cup red peppers and thicken it with
white beans. Got it? Use your head. Play, have fun with your food.
Vegetable
|
Starch
|
Enrichment
|
carrot
|
rice, ¾ cup uncooked
|
butter, 3 tbs.
|
spinach
onion
tomato
red
peppers
celery
sweet potato
mushrooms
parsnips
asparagus
salsify
butternut
squash
pumpkin
yam
|
ditalini, ¾
cup uncooked
pastina, ½
cup uncooked
bread, 2
cups diced
red or
white beans, 1 cup
cooked
lentils, 1
cup uncooked
|
heavy
cream, ½ cup
whole
milk, 1 cup
yogurt, 1
cup
buttermilk,
1 cup
pesto, 3
tbs.
|
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